The Grassmarket

Edinburgh mini break

7 March 2018

Only it wasn't - a mini break, I mean.

It was a work trip - I was there with the day job.

And it was a bit of a flying visit - not a lot of time for anything much other than day job stuff.

It has been quite a few years since my last visit to Edinburgh.

I travelled up by train - very civilised and beautiful views as we passed through the Borders.

I arrived at Waverley Station - that had had a bit of a face lift since my last visit (which, let's face it, was a while ago!)

Waverley Station is right in the middle of Edinburgh. Princes Street is on your right as you exit, and the Castle and Royal Mile are on your left.

But I had to turn round and get onto a local train out to Edinburgh Park station - because my first meeting was out of the city.

And it was there (not right outside the station but in the business park adjacent to the station) that I came across this stunning sculpture.

I later discovered that this piece is by Sir Eduardo Luigi Paolozzi - a Scottish sculptor and artist, though clearly of Italian heritage.

I am not really familiar with Paolozzi, but it seems he was born in Leith, a part of Edinburgh, so was a real local.

I discovered this is called 'The Wealth of Nations'.

On the sculpture is the following Einstein quote:

"Knowledge is wonderful, but imagination is even better."

There was only enough time to photograph the piece, and I did not get the chance to explore it from all angles. I had a meeting to attend.

Back to central Edinburgh - I was staying in a hotel just off Princes Street. And as I was wandering around trying to find the hotel (note to self - don't rely on just the post code! Use the address!) I wandered past the Oxford Bar. It was getting late, photo opportunities were limited and I was on a mission, so if you squint you can make out the sign in this photo.

But it exists! And that was a surprise to me.

Now, you will be wondering why I am mentioning a rather unassuming little drinking hole tucked down a small lane behind Princes Street. But if you are familiar with John Rebus, the detective at the centre of the Inspector Rebus series of novels by Scottish writer Ian Rankin, then you will have heard of the Oxford Bar. I had just assumed, like Rebus himself, that the Oxford Bar was a fiction.

But I did not stop and investigate.

Instead, I had to find my hotel room - which turned out to be a rather lovely and well appointed little self catering apartment. That was a bit of a surprise. And ideal for a longer stay. But I was only in Edinburgh for one night.

If you are interested, it was called Eden Locke. I booked it without really knowing what it was - I got a late deal and really only chose it for the location.

The second day I had two business meetings. But, there was a bit of time between them. So I took the opportunity to explore an old haunt - The Grassmarket. This is a historic space, used for centuries as a location for horse and cattle markets and also, rather gruesomely, public hangings. It nestles under the Castle and is easily, if precipitously, accessed from The Royal Mile.

As a teenager, I lived at Stirling. I would take the train into Edinburgh and explore the alleys and tenements off the Royal Mile. That is how I discovered The Grassmarket and the stunningly picturesque West Box and Victoria Street that lead off it.

I remember it being quite 'alternative' - a lingering waft of joss sticks and a bit hippy.

I must admit I was prepared to be disappointed and for Costa Coffees and Starbucks to be prevalent - but I was presently surprised. The joss sticks may be be burnt out, but it was still full of quirky, independent shops.